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“If I don't want to wear boots or anything crazy, I throw my GATs on and it just works,” said Victor Valenzuela, 26, an ICU nurse in Las Vegas.

He's referring to German Army Trainers, unisex sneakers with a slim gum sole, white leather upper, gray suede detailing around the toe and minimal branding. The muted, streamlined kicks were reportedly conceived in the 1970s or early '80s for the German army. Sold at vintage stores and in faithful (or subtly tweaked) reproductions by brands like Adidas and French luxury label Maison Margiela, they have cycled in and out of popularity over the years.

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At sneaker-resale site StockX, the most popular GAT is the BW Army sneaker by Adidas, says Rachel Makar, senior director of merchandising. Between January and July 2024, its sales shot up by 3,500% year-over-year, she reports.

She calls GATs a “cult, low-key” sneaker and a “must-have” for anyone seeking a less-obvious sub for Adidas Sambas. The Samba has reigned as the ‘It' sneaker for over a year, but some are tired of its ubiquity and are turning to subdued, retro alternatives.

The GAT's origins are hazy. Puma allegedly designed the prototype for the German army, and Adidas supplied the Bundeswehr with its BW Army shoes in the '80s and '90s. (Adidas relaunched that style in 2017, though isn't selling it currently.) Hundreds of thousands of sneakers were supposedly issued to army staff in the latter part of the 20th century.

One of today's most famous GATs, Margiela's $670 luxe Replica Sneaker, is crafted in Italy from nappa leather. But you can score cheaper versions at brands including Oliver Cabell ($199) and cult Slovak label Novesta (about $160). Attesting to the sneaker's now-mainstream appeal, J.Crew and Urban Outfitters sell takes, too.

 

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Rose Forde, a celebrity stylist in London, credits the GAT's simplicity, calling it “a blank canvas” that can accompany looks ranging from grunge to high fashion. Susan Carroll Cooper, 43, a design-studio manager in Glasgow, Scotland, says she favors GATs over colorful sneakers because they suit her vintage, workwear look. cfv

Scott Gabrielson, the Minneapolis-based founder of Oliver Cabell, calls the GAT a true original in sneaker history. “You can't push [the design] too far until it becomes something completely different,” said Gabrielson. His brand (like some others) offers the classic white-and-gray style as well as takes in shades like navy.

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Want original, vintage GATs? Hit up Etsy or eBay, and expect to pay around $70, says Borsarello. He recommends sizing up, since “they look better laced tight.”

But go easy on those laces—they might be half a century old.

The Wall Street Journal is not compensated by retailers listed in its articles as outlets for products. Listed retailers frequently are not the sole retail outlets.